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What's it for Mister?

What’s it for mister…………….?

My FJR and I met up with David and his Blackbird at Warwick Services. It was 05.15 Thursday 15th April. The morning was misty and cold but the weather forecast promised better. By the time we reached Lancaster it was overcast but clear, by Carlisle it was much brighter and by our 09.15 breakfast stop at the Hamilton Services, on the M74, the sun was shining.

As we travelled the last section of motorway up to Stirling the scenery improved with views across the Carse to the Ochill Hills and the Wallace Monument……….’FREEDOM!’

From Perth the A9 snakes north to Inverness through some amazing scenery. A wide, fast and sweeping ‘A’ Road, interspersed by short sections of dual carriage way the road would be perfect for long distance touring if not for the 60mph limit and many police patrols.

Lunch was taken at a Little Chef just 20 Miles south of Inverness.

Inverness shrank in our mirrors as we crossed the Kessok bridge and headed north west on the A835 to Ullapool, the final 20 miles of which are close to perfection – fast, sweeping and open with constant radius turns………..most of the time!

At 15.30 we pulled into Ullapool where the 3rd member of our group would be arriving from Stornoway on the Ferry. We spent the next hour chatting to 2 Northern Constabulary Motorcyclists who would be taking the ferry to Stornoway to run their version of Bike – Safe. 2 police riders - 24 candidates – 2 days…………..hmmmm?

When Alan disembarked from the ferry we headed south to our hotel at Achnasheen which would be our base for the next 4 nights. It was 17.45 – the sun was still shining and Warwick was 610 miles south.

At 09.30, after a hearty breakfast, we headed south on the A890 and by 10.00 the sun was splitting the very blue sky.

Down the east side of Loch Carron with beautiful views across to Isle of Skye and Plockton where the BBC series ‘McBeth’ was filmed. From Invergarry south to Spean Bridge and then east along the length of Loch Laggan where we caught our first sight of the RAF Tornados as they use the glens and mountains for low level combat training.

After these roads the short section south on the A9 seemed very, very tame – but this was to be short lived!

The A924 is fast and narrow with a surprise round every corner – bridges, cattle grids, sheep and best of all, stunning vistas. North through Glen Shee on the A93 to Braemar and the Balmoral Estate and then joining the A939 with its many twists and turns, both up hill and down dale – a real twister! Cock Bridge,Lecht Ski Centre, Tomitoul and finally Granton on Spey - Wheeeee !

After a short stop to regain our breath we continued north on the A939 through a landscape which was now softer and flatter but the road remained interesting with very fast sweepers and the occasional ‘Shiiiiiiiii…….!’. At Nairn we turned west to Inverness and across the Kessok Bridge. It is now rush hour - but not as we understand it. After another 75 miles we arrive back at our base with the sun still shining. Tired but satisfied after another 350 miles. Some Guinness – some food and then to bed.

Saturday morning, and guess what – the sun was shining. We headed north through Ullapool, Ledmore and then east on the A839 through Loch Assynt to Lochinver.

The next 15 miles was along the most technical and bum tightening road I have driven on since 1995 when I had to tow a 6 metre boat with a Landrover Discovery down the same road. As well as the narrow single track corkscrew tarmac, which was testing enough, we also encountered and were distracted by gravel, sand, sheep, 2 other vehicles and of course the breathtaking scenery!

Lunch stop under the Kylestrome Bridge beside the narrow opening to Loch Glendhu. Good Scottish hospitality, mirror flat water, blue sky over the majestic mountains as well as the herons taking fish and a family of otters playing amongst the rocks and kelp ……………mind blowing!!!!!

The afternoon saw us heading up through Scourie to Laxford Bridge where we turned south on fast, flat, and safe single track tarmac alongside Loch Mhor and Loch Shin to Lairg. Still on the single track strip we turned onto the A837 back towards Ledmore and then south through Ullapool to Braemore where we turned west onto the A832. A mixture of fast flowing curves and mind numbing, twisty, single track ribbons, the road follows the south shore of Little Loch Broom, skirts Gruinard Bay, Loch Ewe and Gairloch before swinging south east along the shore of Loch Maree and then onto Achnasheen.

The sun was still shining as we pulled into our hotel. The many single track roads meant we had only managed to cover 250 miles – still we can’t have everything!

Sunny Sunday – the tempo of today would be totally different from the last 2 – with wide open roads snaking up and through the the many mountain ranges. South to Fort William and across the Ballachulish Bridge where we turned south to follow the A828 along the shore of Loch Linnhe and through Appin – the landscape soft and lush with a back drop of mountains. Across the Connel Bridge and south East on the A85 to Tyndrum. A quick fuel stop and north on the famous A82 to the Bridge Orchy Hotel for lunch. Lunch was short as we wanted to get on. Rannoch Moor and we can see the road twist and turn ahead of us up onto the Black Mount, past the Glen Coe Ski Centre, through Glen Coe with high mountains standing either side of the black ribbon. As we dropped down out of Glen Coe our friendly RAF Tornado was back, flying low and very, very fast. Across Ballachulish Bridge, Fort William continuing northwards on the A82. Past Loch Linnhe, Loch Lochy and finally Loch Ness – of monster fame! At Drummnadrochit we turned west towards Balmore on the A831 through Struy, Beauly, Muir of Ord and then onto the A835 to Achnasheen. We had covered another 360 miles on superb empty roads with stunning scenery, the sun had shon all day and we felt great.

Monday morning and guess what – the sun………. – you know the rest! David and I headed south through Fort William and Glen Coe. Alan’s trip was over and he headed towards Ullapool and his ferry - thanks mate! After a short lunch break at Bridge of Orchy David and I headed south to Crianlarach and then down the west side of Loch Lomond. Shortly after Dumbarton we crossed the Erskine Bridge and turned east on the M8, through the south side of Glasgow and onto the M74. Before the advent of the M74 there was a small road – the A74 which now travels south, crossing and re-crossing the M74. It has now been re-named A7076/7078 and consists of mile after mile of wide, swooping tarmac which is unknown to 99.9% of all motorists. As David and I headed down this road towards Gretna, we covered 58 miles without passing another vehicle in any direction!

At Gretna we turned east to Longtown and then onto Alston in the North Pennines. It had been a very long hard day, but as we pulled into our bike friendly hotel we were elated and fulfilled.

The grippy, twisty tarmac in Scotland had taken it’s toll of may FJR’s rubber, so next morning I picked up new tyres in Penrith before heading down the A6 to Preston, M6 to junction 17, A54 to Congleton and then onto Buxton where we picked up the A6 to Bakewell. After a well earned stop in a Bakewell tea room we headed out to the A515 and then eventually split up, David heading down the M40 and I home along the A429 to Shipston.

It had been a fantastic 6 days – some of the best biking roads in Europe – superb weather – stunning scenery – great company – good hotels, drink and food.

After 2385 miles I definitely know what my bike is for …………….. What about you?

Gordon McCue

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